Tuesday 27 November 2012

Victorian and Edwardian fashion

Victorian and Edwardian fashion is instantly recognisable and a real staple in history. When researching vintage or decadant fashions, the mind links immediately to Victorian couture for its infamous garments which have since been replicated and emulated to fit into modern British times. We still wear waistcoats and top-hats today, albeit for weddings, but for events nonetheless. We also still wear florals and lace. Black lace (which the Victorians would wear for mourning) is in current fashion and can easily be found in shops around town, whether it be a dress, hoisery or cardigan.

Ditsy/shabby chic:
Girl modelling 'ditsy' dress
These days, as it is currently in trend throughout Britain, it's common to come across an old-looking birdcage or decorative floral photo frame in shops, claiming to be in the style of 'vintage ditsy'.
I'm unsure exactly where 'ditsy' comes from but the style is country-style Victorian-Edwardian, i.e.: floral, rose-pattern, gingham, soft colours...etc. Furniture in this style is also designed to look old and battered, with paintwork peeling and scratched off, chips and indents...etc. They're designed to look as though they've been handed down generations, thus aquiring a vintage effect!
Ditsy or shabby chic clothing usually looks 'old grannyish' with floral, knee-length tea dresses and cream shirts with big, brass buttons and long socks with ribbons or bows. Overall, the fashion is soft, pale and patterened, and often quite frumpy and shapeless!

Edwardian fashion
Stereotypical Edwardian couple (with Scotty dog)
When I think of Edwardian fashion, I typically conjur up images of ladies wearing floor-length cotton dresses with puffy shoulders and lace collars, sporting large sunhats and frilly parasoles.
By 1890, tailored women's waist jackets became longer and looser (thus more comfortable) but was thought to be too masculine and unladylike.
Blouses were flouncy and feminine, with pussybow ties, frilled/ruffled neck cravats, lace inserts and puffed sleeves. They were often worn with a brooch or cameo pin.
Edwardian hats featured many feathers and were very extravagant. Ladies often wore real animal fur, either as boas or drapes or featured on their hats, too.
For men, there was little difference between Edwardian and Victorian fashion. Men were still waistcoated and smart with hats and boots. However, their clothes did become more flamboyant with lapels on their jackets being tailored with patterned material such as floral or pinstripe or, just generally, jacket colours becoming lighter and bolder than the those of Victorian fashion.

Victorian fashion
Stereotypical Victorian couple
The Victorians were known for their straight-laced conservatism. Women suffered for their beauty: sucked in at the waist with corsets that often caused physical damage to their ribcages and internal organs, and hair scraped and pinned back a little too tightly!
Outfits covered the entire body, from neck to feet. Outerwear was worn with gloves, too.
The colours of Victorian clothing were muddy and/or plain in the early era, but the introduction of synthetic dyes towards the late era brought lighter and brighter coloured clothes into fashion.
Men were equally as elegantly dressed and wore frock coats and cravats, and more than likely sported mutton-chops and/or moustaches.

Contemporary fashion inspired by Victorian:
Steam Punk or Pseudo-Victorian fashion

Modelling Victorian-inspired contemporary outfit
Steam Punk clothing
Catwalk model sporting Victorian-inspired outfit
Steam Punk clothing is inspired by Victorian clothing, its name deriving from the steam travel age (Victorian industrial revolution). While it clearly holds strong gothic influences, the Victorian style is evident through the jackets, cravats, shirts and lace.
If I imagine drawing a typical Goth, I want to draw a girl with flowing dark hair and a corset with a flowing black lacey skirt. While modern goths tend to add spikes, chains, studs...etc. (from the punk era), the essence of it is very Victorian.

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